Arrival in Kirkenes: Gateway to Norway’s Far North
We arrived in Kirkenes, Norway, after a brief 1.5-day stop in Oslo, where we explored museums, fjords, and cozy cafés. While Oslo gave us a taste of city life, we were excited to reach Kirkenes, the true highlight of our northern Norway adventure.
Practical Tip: Allow at least 1–2 days in Oslo to acclimate before heading north; flights to Kirkenes can be short but scenic.
Exploring WWII Ruins in Ekkerøy Feriehus
After settling at our cabin in Ekkerøy Feriehus, we explored WWII bunkers and artillery outposts. These weathered structures stood stark against the horizon, whispering stories of a turbulent past.
The strong winds carried the scent of the ocean, and the horizon stretched endlessly, blending seamlessly into the sky. Walking through these ruins, I reflected on Kirkenes’ WWII history—occupied by German forces from 1940 to 1944 and lying at the Soviet border, this area was a strategic point of conflict.
Even “nighttime” in Kirkenes was bathed in soft, constant light due to the midnight sun.
On the Way to Bird Island
Heading to Bird Island (Hornøya), we passed a striking mural in Kirkenes: a hand holding a scroll with the words “NATURRESSURSENE TILHØRER ALLE” (*“The natural resources belong to everyone”*). It reminded us that these landscapes are shared treasures.
Engagement Question: Have you ever seen public art that made you stop and reflect on nature’s value?
Bird Island Seabird Colony
Arriving at Hornøya, the pungent scent of ammonia welcomed us—a sign of thriving seabird colonies. Thousands of seabirds soared overhead, their calls creating a symphony of nature.
Practical Tip: Bring binoculars and a camera with zoom; the bird activity is mesmerizing but occasionally distant.
Hiking to Hornøya Lighthouse
We hiked through lush vegetation to the lighthouse, where crashing waves and salty air created an unforgettable atmosphere. On the lighthouse wall, a weathered inscription read:
“I’VE GOT A MAGIC CHARM THAT I KEEP UP MY SLEEVE; I CAN WALK THE OCEAN FLOOR AND NEVER HAVE TO BREATHE”
This sparked our imagination about the mysteries of the ocean. After returning, we enjoyed fresh shrimp on crusty bread and cloudberries for dessert—an ideal way to reflect on the day.
Practical Tip: Wear sturdy hiking shoes; paths can be slippery near cliffs.
Exploring Remote Hamningberg
Hamningberg, far from the mainland, offered solitude and raw, untouched landscapes. From the bird-watching hide, we observed whales gliding through icy waters, their misty breath visible in the crisp air. Lunch here was extraordinary, enhanced by the dramatic natural scenery.
Engagement Question: Would you visit a place this remote just for wildlife sightings?
Final Drive Past the Russian Border
On our drive back, we passed the Russian border, taking photos and appreciating the stark beauty of the region. Reflecting on the journey, we felt grateful for this once-in-a-lifetime northern adventure.
Practical Travel Tips for Northern Norway
- Best Time to Visit: May–July for the midnight sun; September–March for northern lights.
- Packing Essentials: Layers, windproof jackets, waterproof shoes, binoculars, sunscreen, and sunglasses.
- Local Customs: Respect wildlife, especially seabird colonies; keep a safe distance from nests.
- Food Recommendations: Try fresh seafood and local cloudberries; simple meals feel extraordinary against stunning scenery.